By Aaron Byrd and Michael Moss
What's In It: Doritos Locos Tacos: Taco Bell's Doritos Locos Taco is a marriage made in processed-food heaven. It joins a perfectly engineered snack with a proven fast-food colossus. Michael Moss asks: what's in it?
THE INVENTOR OF DORITOS, a longtime Madison Avenue executive named Arch West, first envisioned this snack in 1964 as more than a golden-hued chip. He saw it as a marketing powerhouse, a vehicle for delivering endless varieties of new flavors.
But none of the formulations would surpass one of the earliest: Nacho Cheese. This is the irresistible taste — with its coppery, finger-staining dust — that sent Doritos into the processed food hall of fame, and more recently into a partnership with Taco Bell. The resulting Doritos Locos Taco sold at the rate of one million a day when it was released in 2012, and now ranks as the most successful item on Taco Bell's menu.
"What these are trying to do is excite every stinking taste bud receptor you have in your mouth," said Steven A. Witherly, a food scientist who wrote "Why Humans Like Junk Food," an insider's guide to the psychobiology of those cravings. I visited Mr. Witherly at his home near Los Angeles, where we raided his lab to do some tasting and experiments in search of what makes the chips and the taco so alluring.
Graphic: The Nacho Dorito
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